Last day in Oaxaca

 On our last full day, I headed back to the Reforma neighborhood (about a mile from the Centro) to check out Itanoni Antojeria and Totilleria. This spot is only open for breakfast and lunch and I knew this was my last chance. I'm so glad I went. Looking into it I see it is Alice Waters' fave Oaxaca spot (check out that pic of the egg frying on the comal!). See more of Itanoni after the jum

Mexican non-alcoholic beverages are a whole world to discover. This one is called tascalate. It's a mix of roasted maize, chocolate, pine nuts, achiote, vanilla and sugar.

Scott and I had passed Itanoni before, when it was closed and I was jokingly calling it "the corn museum" because it is all about the veneration of traditional corn varieties. I know that is not really funny in a land that has lost so much of its traditional agricultural variety.

 It was just me so I ordered three small dishes. I almost did four but the server let me know that was too much for one in answer to my question. That middle dish is a tetela, like a triangular quesadilla. This one was filled with lots of soft, fresh cheese. That's a memela on the bottom. This meal was outstanding. This is a special place.

There's a front street-facing part where the giant comal is, this cute hallway, and a back patio. A must visit in Oaxaca!

 See a non-food photo. Of an art nouveau building. Oaxaca has a few.

 Then we went to the IAGO arts institute, started by Francisco Toledo. There was a really fun and extensive assemblage exhibit by his son, an artist (and tattooist) known as Dr Lakra. There were thrift story type portraits, pornography, album covers and everything in between. I was surprised to see a lot of parents and kids checking out the exhibit, especially because there were so many cheesecake images and one or two hardcore pics.

 There were framed large originals from what seemed to be a dermatology textbook

 There were a whole series of these, which were card-sized and antique. Can anyone translate these (I'm sure) hilarious jokes?

 Anyone?

 Anyone?

 The last night we ate at La Biznaga again. This was a ceviche tostada with some cute lil strips of habanero one of which made me choke and go cry in the bathroom.

Quesadilla and I'm not sure what herb this is on top. The internet revealed it may be known as Mexican tarragon, or Mexican marigold (tagetes lucida). Can't wait to start my Mexican herb garden!