Oacaca, another day, I think 4

After I got back from Oaxaca/Jalisco I continued reading this Paul Theroux book about his recent driving trip through Mexico, with an emphasis on Oaxaca. It's a fun, discursive, informative book. It's a little on the curmudgeonly side, and he does some harsh critiques of other books about Mexico and also his take on tourists spending a tiny bit of time in Mexico and thinking they know or can explain it. I will try not to fall into that trap!It's interesting to get his take on a lot of what we experienced, including the sites in this 9 hour slog of a guided day trip we took.

I won't go into visiting the Tule tree, which has the world's biggest trunk. It's a Montezuma cypress, in the town of Tule. Welll, there, I guess I just did go into it. It's a big-ass tree! More after the jump

After we looked at the tree we had time to kill. The back alleys of this town revealed some good muraling

 Then we headed to the Teotlitlan del Valle area and went to a small mezcal maker. Their mezcal was not noteworthy, but it was cool to see the types of agave growing. I think there are like 40 types that are used to make mezcal, and espadin is the most widely cultivated one. This a big pit where they roast the pinas (hearts of agave) for days.

After the roast, they crush them with this stone wheel, horse drawn. Then they put them in vats (see vat covered with white tarp at back). The fermenting vats smelled really earthy and interesting. Then they distill into steel or copper or clay or whatever, They might do like 3 distillations, or maybe more? We discovered that the clay imparts a desirable flavor, at least to me and smiller. That In Situ spot I mentioned in a previous post had a whole large section of the menu devoted to Olla (clay).

 Then we went to Mitla, a small architectural site that is notable for the cool designs and the fact that it was jointly built by the Zapotecs and Mixtecs. Those are the two predominant indigenous tribes in this area. It's a lovely site. There's a Catholic church built on top of some of it, which the Catholics really liked to do.

 Columns that used to hold up the (wooden, I think) roof

Paul Theroux went to this, and remarked that the nearby Zapotec site of Yagul is even better, and not much visited. Next time I go I will get to Yagul.

 Then we went to what is basically considered the main attraction, the limestone formation and pools called Hierve el Agua. To get there you take a windy dirt road into the mountains, and there are a lot of tiny mezcal distilleries, herds of goats in the road, and folks riding donkeys. It is a cool drive. The mountain view when you arrive is GORGEOUS

Here's a view of the pool, I had to wait for Instagram divas to get out of the way to make this shot.

There are the limestone deposits from the spring that have accumulated into a waterfall-like formation. The tour took us to a super lame buffet place for lunch, which was annoying. I did not take any pictures.

 We ate dinner at Cabuche, which is the rare Oaxaca spot open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It is popular with tourists and has vegetarian options. The food was good and it has a cute patio. I got a tlayudita.

 I had wanted to try this late-night suckling pig taco truck that was a block from where we were staying. NM recommended. It opens at 8pm and stays open all night: Lechoncito de Oro.

I got the pierna taco. Fresh tortilla made to order, really good green salsa. It was beyond delicious.