Beef noodle soup and roti

This beef noodle restaurant in Chiang Mai (Rote Yiam) is famous, and is in the Michelin guide. It had many pics of Thai celebs with the owners.

You pick your meat assortment, I got meatball, tendon and steak and you pick the type of noodle too. This was a delicious bowl of soup, especially the tendon. I would not have minded more pieces of it. Portions in Thailand tend to be small by our standards, which is kind of nice when you want to hit up multiple restaurants.

This is the big pot at the front that they mix your soup up from.

This pic above is from a roti shop in Chiang Rai. Remember how I said yesterday that my fancy hotel was right near tons of good restaurants? This Roti shop was less than ten minutes, and it was a fun walk down residential streets. I ended up talking to 3 little girls while they showed off their various cats to me. You can see pots of curry, with fried fish there in the middle and beef at bottom

Wiki reveals that Thailand is 5-10% Muslim and you see quite a few women in headscarves. So there are halal restaurants and some of them specialize in roti. Dessert roti booths are ubiquitous at night markets. The roti is fried up fresh and filled with nutella, bananas, what have you. I got a banana egg one that was bomb. Above is a beef curry soup and roti. Both were pretty small and since they were so good I also got...

Chicken-and-egg stuffed roti. I could eat this all the time. 

A great Chiang Rai restaurant Lab Sanam Keela

 I did a trip by myself to Thailand recently. Some people asked "why Thailand" and my answer was that I already knew I liked SE Asia, having previously visited Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia (just Phnom Penh), and that post-COVID I was feeling unsure about how travel would be so it seemed like a good idea to go a heavily touristed country. Of course the food was on my mind, and the question of what it would be like there vs. the Thai food in Sacramento and what I grew up eating.

I don't think I ever, or rarely ate Thai food growing up. Moving downtown in the mid-90s Amarin Thai (now called Bangkok@12 Thai and frequently crashed into by cars) was the jam, I can't remember why. It was one of the few on the grid probably. I remember getting curries and Tom Yum soup. Working in Davis for almost the last 20 years, there are so many Thai restaurants (many have closed and the popularity of Thai with college students has maybe waned in favor of Chinese, especially boba chains) and coworkers always wanted to go to Thai for birthdays etc. I always kind of groused about that internally because I thought the food was bland and often too sweet, and never liked that kind of pounded out breast meat that was what you got when you ordered chicken as the protein. Sophia's of course is still going strong in Davis, which at times has served as a fun venue and which Davis loves for their sweet cocktails.

My knowledge of Thai food barely progressed past that really. I got into Laotian food from learning more about it at Hmong New Year and there's a definite overlap there but my curiosity to find good Thai food in Sac wasn't really piqued. I ate at Kin Thai once with KW before the pandemic (if memory serves) and then got takeout there once or twice during, and once the ordering process went really wrong so although it's walkable from my house and I could tell it's really popular I didn't eat there often.

Anyway, although I posted lots of IG-bait pics of temples to IG while I was gone, I didn't post as many food pics, so I wanted to do a whole post on the food. I'll start in the city where I ended my trip, which ended up being my favorite place I visited: Chiang Rai. Chiang Rai is far north and kind of equidistant from Laos and Myanmar, very close to both. I still know nothing about Myanmar food, but I def had food in CR that I think of as Lao style.

I'll start with the first meal I ate when I arrived in CR (it was 4 hours via swank bus from Chiang Mai). I had decided to splurge on a 4 star hotel ($130 a night for White Lotus vibez) and I was a bit concerned that it was outside the city center, but I figured if that was annoying to get back into the center that I would just stay at the hotel a lot and maybe eat lame hotel food. But on the tuk tuk from the bus station  (10 minutes) we passed multiple crowded restaurants that were 5-10 minute walk from the hotel. I was so psyched. I checked in, gawked at the room/pool etc and right away headed to a very close place that specializes in larb, called Lab Sanam Keela. Their pork larb is pictured above. It has bits of liver, skin, unknown bits in there but was not gamy or particularly strong tasting, just delicious. It was warm and a bit saucy. Sticky rice seems more common in northern Thailand, probably the Lao proximity influence, not sure, and look at those herbs! The herbs were the real draw, and also cabbage and mustard greens to make wraps. Dude at the table next to me was eschewing implements to ball up the sticky rice in his hand and use it to scoop etc. so I did the same.

I isolated some of the interesting herbs. This one had an incense-like flavor. I just spent about 15 minutes browsing Thai and Lao herbs to try to find what it is with no luck. Even a reverse image scan didn't work.

The one above was slightly bitter and very sour and I made a joke on IG "it me". Pause for laugh.

And then you have fish mint, which I recognized from Vietnamese dishes I've had.

Here's what it looks like from the outside. I liked it so much that I went back for dinner the next day. The first day I went for late lunch, the restaurant only had a few others, the second time I was at prime dinner time and it was quite crowded, many big parties. Traveling alone and not being Thai I stood out and this visit was a bit awkward. I felt self conscious as a weirdo, and then they sat me directly in the entrance so then I'd be the first person that every party coming in saw so the awkwardness just kept rolling on but oh well.

On my prior visit I saw this dish at a table and the roasted squash sold me that I had to try it. It was not on the English language menu, but I looked up a pic from online reviews of this place and screenshotted it for ordering. There was some concern from the server about me ordering it, to the extent she brought someone out from the kitchen about it, but the language barrier just couldn't be overcome. I assured the kitchen guy I would not send it back. It was completely not spicy or unusual to a Western palate so I'm not sure what the concern was. Anyway, it's a mild green chili dip and veggies. Great!

This fried fish dish is a show-stopper, it's on many tables and the dip is the real story. Really heavy on the lime and so good. All the puffy bits on top of the fish are whole garlic cloves, deep-fried, some with a bit of papery garlic skin still on. The meat is filleted and fried and is resting on the skeleton of the fish. I think initially some of the concern is just that I ordered too much food, and true that, but I knew this would be the last time I could ever eat there so I had to go all out.

I wanted to capture this tableau because the best way to drink watery beer in a hot climate is of course on ice.

One last thing that was a little bit funny was after I had been served, the guy from the kitchen who had earlier tried to dissuade me from the dip plate brought me this little bowl of pork belly soup to see if I liked it. I feel like he was trying to get a feel for if it pleased a Western palate and I assured him it was great. You can see that it has cilantro, the varietal that's stronger tasting, and you don't see cilantro super commonly in Thailand in my eating experience in my limited time.

So that's that restaurant, probably my fave place all around that I ate but true to the awkward and experimental nature of travel not always easy and comfortable at all times.

First post since Valentine's one

 First post since Feb due to 1) desire to avoid whatever the hell is going on on twitter 2) in office and it's kind of a quiet day and I have many projects to avoid

This profile of the playwright Will Arbery is gorgeously written. I am excited that Capital Stage is staging the only play of his I've seen (online, early pandemic) "Heroes of the Fourth Turning". 

I recently returned to CapStage for (I think) first time since pandemic, unless I am forgetting a play. I went to see Gloria, which I knew was about a New Yorker-style workplace and I was like "right up my alley" but then there is also a workplace killing which shocked me. I had not seen the prominent "this play contains gun violence" sign at the entrance. It was an ok play, and now I have seen 2 OK plays by this same playwright at CapStage (the other being Octoroon). Octoroon featured an audience participation slave auction so that was one of the cringiest moments I've maybe ever had in live theater besides when my phone range during The Seagull.

I won't post too much about movies because that's all I ever do but I'm pretty excited about all the movies that came out today. I think I'm going to see The Menu today, but I also want to see She Said, Armageddon Time, You Resemble Me, Bardo, and Banshees of Inisheran. Of those I expect I won't like Armageddon time and Bardo, but WE SHALL SEE.

I'm excited that there's another Magic Mike next year and it's directed by Soderbergh. 

Where are we all at with remote work? While I would jump at the chance for 100% remote, I have reluctantly returned more often to the office lately and I'm adjusting. The chance of some WFH makes it more bearable, and I think my workplace is never going back to that mindset that you sit in your office from 8-5 so that people know you're working. So the flexibility that offers (for instance, working from home for a bit in the morning, then heading in) helps as well. Little things make a big difference. It is ridiculous how much satisfaction I am getting from having set up a tea area (with vintage tablecloth) and that some of the students I work with are using it. I'm still just mostly zooming from my office though, but trying to not think about how it's silly that anyone cares where I do that from.

I like to text NH when I'm up very early reading the comics. I know she will always be up before me and will appreciate anything comics-related. This comic is disgusting on (at least) 2 levels

Not dying, indeed living, if not your best life, A life, is excellent, but one consequence of longevity is that you live to see things die, fail, go away etc. And one such thing is the motherfucking print edition of Parade Magazine noooooo!!!! Where will I go for my mild celeb interviews? For the advice of the smartest women in the world (TM) Marilyn Vos Savant? Founded in 1941. I will not be seeking it out online. This is sad. 

This is the horrible creep that home-invaded a neighbor and she is still trying to bring him to justice, vigilante or otherwise. If you see him around for real call 911 and you can hit me up for more info. He deserves it, he tried to home invade her neighbor as well. Boulevard Park area. At least text me with info on his whereabouts if you don't want to call the police. His name is Jesse. Yes, that is the awesome flier I designed before we knew he had actually done the main crime. Graphic design is my passion.

Oakland for my Valentine

 I got a cute AirBnB in Temescal for 3 nights and smiller joined me Friday.

Started out Thursday by breaking the bank at Snail Bar, both on fancy snacks and then I took 2 bottles of wine home too. So worth it though and I don't do much at home in Sac. Snail Bar is super popular but I knew as a solo at 5 on a Thursday I'd be fine to get a spot

Started with oysters, the wine is the Mosse chenin blanc. I bought a bottle to take home and also bought a bottle of their grolleau 

As I sat I listened to what seemed like a first date where a guy told his whole life story. Quote, "having sex at burning man is actually very hard, because everyone is gross"

Then I got the snails, cuz it's snail bar and ya hafta. They were buttery of course and chewy, the best touch was the slice of lemon zest. I loved these snacks but def one of these two dishes messed my stomach up for days. I tried to blame Burgers N' Brew, where my boss dragged me for work, but since I got an Impossible Burger there, I'd say the oysters are the most likely. Are you interested in my intestines??

 

I schlepped from Snail Bar to Redfield cider bar on College with two bottles of wine  in my giant tote. I had a glass of Dupont cider at Redfield, and then headed to Ramen Bar. OMG their ramen is so good. This is the smoked duck and it's so smoky and maybe the best part are on the left there the slices of sunchoke. Unexpected and fucking great!!!

In the morning, since I had Friday off I knew that was my chance to try Boichik bagels with likely a minimal line. I was right. Biochik was interesting. Very firm, very glossy. I was slightly put off by the fact they recommend you order untoasted (uh, no) and I can't say it toasted up well when I got some for the second day. Also, they push whipped cream cheese on you (uh no yet again). I liked Boichik, maybe not a love affair.

Sunday I went to Beauty's Bagel, which I know is now Wise Sons. I figured since it's not cool anymore it probably wouldn't be that busy and I was right. I got the sesame to go and they are still good, not detectably different from when it was Beauty's. Perhaps they kept their recipe.

On Friday we had a res at Belotti on College. Still mostly outdoor dining so that jankness of the sidewalk and lighting of the streetlight was not the most romantic. They don't have any type of patio. It was so dark that an elderly guy tripped over the heat lamp and the table of youngs next to us turned on their cell phone flashlight and just set it face up on their table to be able to see their food.

Nevertheless, the pasta was super good. Polenta stuffed tortelli with a thyme and rabbit sauce!!

I wish I would have taken more pictures! We had a lot of fun around Lake Merritt, including at the bonsai garden area.  I am out of practice taking pics cuz of not having much to take pictures of usually.

Really good beers dranken: a dank West coast IPA at Temescal (dank beers and I are having a moment), not great brews at Wondrous Brewing company in Emeryville including a pilsner that somewhat offended me, De Garde Midi Brais at Redfield (tasted like the poor man's Cantillon Saint-Gilloise)

Oh yeah, and ate at Tacos Oscar, I got the fried egg taco that is an oily mess in the best way, dripping with salsa macha, and the chicken with guajillo. I can't wait until Tacos Oscar opens their side area back up, but I am glad they have seating in the front now. Last time I ate there I crouched on a curb.

Should I change blog title to heckamovies?

 I watched Bergman Island. I wanted to see the internet's boyfriend this Scandinavian guy who is a working doctor and also in this move and Worst Person in the World (which is supposed to come to Tower but I'm not holding my breath). He is indeed handsome. Bergman Island reminds me of a movie I love, directed by Joanna Hogg, called Archipelago, which is about privileged people vacationing in an island-type setting but still not being that happy and riding bikes around. But Bergman Island throws in lots of Bergman discourse and a movie-within-a-movie (with some sexy sexy scenes with the Dr.) and has some fuzzy ideas about art and marriage. I enjoyed it, it could have been a bit shorter (as most movies could!). I really want to visit the Bergman Island, except it's overtouristed by Bergman nerds so probably a nearby Swedish Island would be better.

I was reading about it after I watched it, and it turns out that Greta Gerwig was cast in the wife role, but dropped out, and instead it was Vicky Krieps (so memorable from Phantom Thread). I think this movie would have been terrible with Gerwig in it. I like her a lot but she doesn't exactly disappear into a role. Then I was reading what she is up to and she is writing and directing the Barbie movie with Margot Robbie and Gosling as Barbie and Ken. This sounds like a terrible idea.

I also watched A Hero, directed by Asghar Farhadi, who directed A Separation, which I've never seen but I know a lot of people like. A Hero is grueling to watch, it has shades of Bicycle Thief (I think, but I haven't seen it in 20 years so I could be wrong about that). It factors in social media in a deft way that will age well since no specific platform is mentioned. The star Amir Jadidi is so good, he does amazing things with a melting smile and duplicitous eyes. It's interesting to see home and business scenes in contemporary Iran.

Glengarry Glen Ross and a bad back

I threw out my back. I know, "fascinating" you think, "tell me more". I think it is funny that I did whatever I did (sprain? strain?) when I was bending over to wipe my drool up off the floor of the UC Davis gym because I was filling a tube for my COVID spit test. I've gotten like 80 tests and I've never drooled. I must have been really hydrated!

Anyway, I almost audibly heard a "sproing" in god knows what muscle, above my butt and pretty quickly it became painful and scary to sit down or stand up. Walking was fine but changing positions was hard. I went to see Parallel Mothers at the Tower after work and the getting in and out of the car sitch was tough.

I liked Parallel Mothers, I don't think I love any Almodovar movie. I just do not vibe or relate. My fave was probably that recent one with Banderas subbing in as elderly Almodovar (with back troubles!)

I had to call in sick to work the next day. Luckily, I had a million muscle relaxers from old injuries because docs give those things out like candy. After the one day I could work but not much else. It's been 8 days and I am really hoping I can go for a short run tomorrow.

I still managed to go see The Lilies play at the Starlet room (is that what it's called?) and that was fun despite being masked. It is easy for me to resist drinking when there aren't good options.

Me and Smiller watched Glengarry Glen Ross last night because he had never seen it. I think it holds up! I still love it. It came out in 92 and I'm pretty sure I saw it in the theater. It hits different after you've worked in the office. The Ed Harris character reminded me of a guy on my team who never stops complaining! It's like dude there's the door you are free to go. Even though women's stories interest me more these days I can still appreciate this movie and revel in the masculinity, swim in the testosterone, luxuriate in the hairy posturing.

The topic of GGR came up because I watched House of Games the other night. So good! I love Mantegna, and I can never not picture him as the Simpsons character he voices (also love him in Criminal Minds!) I didn't know that Lindsay Crouse is Zosia Mamet's mom, I thought it was second actress wife. No shade on short hair at all but I think that is one of the least flattering cuts of all time. It is flowbee material. I love her all beige outfits however. I have a goal to do more monochrome dressing, but I don't know how to get the tights shades matched (also I barely go anywhere so not much opportunity to work on outfits or show them off)

 Glad I can at least crack myself up with the banner photo. Every time!

How to stay sane in the current times??? Reading (Eve Babitz, Hilton Als, Gary Shteyngart currently on rotation with New Yorker of course). No Didion read or planned to read, and I'll leave it at that....

Cooking: Japanese beef curry. All ingredients from Oto's, which was bangin' around New Year's. I used the curry roux blocks rather than making my own from S&P curry powder. Those are the traditional pickles to serve with (fukujinzuke), which of course Oto's had. I've had curry at restaurants but don't recall having the pickles before. Served with a 12 degrees from Urb, so good! A surprise to me is that most curry recipes have a grated apple in there, but it lent a really good sweetness to it. I want to make it again with chicken katsu.

I also nixtamalized and ground the last of my corn I bought from LA boutique corn vendor Masienda in early pandemic. It was a relief to finally use it all because I won't be grinding my own corn anymore until I find a better corn grinder than the La Victoria hand crank one. It just doesn't yield pliable tortillas. But I have masa flour from Bob's Red Mill and a blue corn flour from Masienda right now so I'm good. I also made handmade flour tortillas the other day. Those are easy and really good. I made the mole amarillo from the recipe from La Guelagetza but now I'm realizing that their recipe is maybe weird (it is certainly hard to follow!), nevertheless it was quite good. Hard to argue with fresh ground spices (like oregano, allspice, cumin) and dried guajilllo chiles as a base for anything. Did not snap a pic of my handmade tostadas with mole amarillo as the roughly ground corn made them kind of  ugly.

This was the best sweet thing I ate. The last couple of years Smiller's mom has been gifting me a panettone for Christmas and I've been making French toast out of it. It's insane

Final PTA post Do I Like Licorice Pizza with spoiler for the ending

M.R. had warned me that LP didn't have much of a plot: "it's a vibe" in his words, so I was prepared. Let me start with the fact that the ticket at Tower was 17 BUCKS!! Is that because it's 70 mm? Also, no previews, so we missed the first five minutes. Is there an awesome credits/title sequence? IDK.

Once I accepted that I had missed the beginning of a movie which has only happened to me once in years and then only because I had the start time wrong, I settled in for the Haim-ish ride. Get it? Haimish? (that's a Yiddish joke). I greatly enjoyed it, although it really felt like a cross between a Wes Anderson and PTA film at times, what with the precocious kids and on-screen theatricals. 

The only truly bad is the really stupid Japanese accent parts, which were very jarring and also had a dumb "payoff" punchline. PTA has said that his Japanese step-mother-in-law has had the experience of people speaking English to her in a "Japanese" accent, and well, maybe? I'm not sure I buy that but that part still should have been cut. I'm sure some far better scenes were left on the cutting room floor. In it's WTF-ness it did authentically feel like a scene from a 70s or 80s film but so what not worth it.

Alana Haim is as dynamic as everyone says and there are so many just beautifully shot scenes. Most of the cameos are really good (Sean Penn and the casting agent come to mind, could have done without the B. Cooper) and again, their randomness lends itself to the 70s shaggy filmmaking vibe. It's sweet and funny. The 10 year age gap does not bother me as it's not realistic that they would be together, so I choose to disregard any conclusion from the ending that they are going to be and think that the kiss was a fluke. 

The music was mostly apt for the scenes. Bonus for making me be like "this is a great Doors song" and props for Smiller for instantly naming it as Peace Frog. Also love to hear Barabajabal in any context. Or to have an excuse to say it, or to get it caught in my head.

I fully applaud PTA making it so that he could hang out and pay tribute to where he grew up/lives and to cast friends. I saw the budget was a surprising 40 mill (I don't really follow the movie biz so maybe that is not surprising?) and as of a couple days ago it had made 6 mill despite really wide release so I think it's not going to be considered a hit.

In conclusion, for my college application essay: I do very much like Paul Thomas Anderson.