Kanye in Sac

 My experiment to link Heckasac to Instagram did not work at all, it got me banned from following anyone or posting on Instagram! Either Instagram hates Blogspot or for some reason this blog has been dubbed obscene. Sigh, the modern world.

I'm listening to The Daily podcast, the NYT one, and they are talking about their in-depth article on Adidas and Kanye, and I love that Sac is in that pop culture pantheon for being the place he went on his 17 minute rant and canceled the tour. I will never forget booing so hard that I just about lost my voice the next day, and then how we left the arena fast enough to see his black SUV stop in the road, him pose with a fan, and speed off. And then how everyone was just roaming the streets, looking for somewhere to hang. I don't remember where we ended up. They mention him canceling but they don't mention how fucking late he started! And I remember folks going nuts when Kid Cudi joined him on the floating stage.

He sold so much merch that night, I just saw someone at Pizza Supreme rocking one of the long-sleeved tees the other day. 

Vollman talk

I am fasting for a "medical test" tomorrow (she's so discreet!) so you may be treated to a series of weak and increasingly unhinged posts. If you know me you know I usually never miss a meal!!!!!! 

True Anon podcast interviewed William Vollman. I had never listened to True Anon but I know of it as a well-known edgy podcast and the host Brace Belden is a friend of a friend. I knew of Brace who got a lot of news coverage a few years back when he went to fight in the Syrian civil war. 

Brace and Liz Franczak, the cohost, came to Sac recently to interview Vollman, who has a studio in a barbed wire compound in Alkali Flat.

Vollman says he heard a story that the first mayor of Sacramento was murdered by a homeless man in Alkali Flat but that he doesn't know for sure. The only reason that's a bit curious is that from my understanding of his nonfiction writing, he's done in-depth histories, so finding that out seems like no task for him, but maybe he prefers not to confirm. Googling reveals the first mayor was William Stout, who served 3 weeks. Where's Bill Burg when you need him?

Vollman's place has been broken into a lot, he's injured right now because of it, or maybe he also has had a car accident? I'm not clear on that. He mentions Loaves and Fishes, as a place that many people hate but I somewhat take issue with that. I think back in the day Loaves was a little more controversial but it's so obviously needed now. I'm sure he means businesses but businesses there have either been there forever and know the deal or who the hell would move a new business into that area not knowing what you are getting into?

They are ostensibly there to discuss his wonderful article in Harper's (please read!). It about homelessness and grief, and is set in Reno. I love it even more because he mostly interviewed the guys in the Cal-Neva, so I can picture the setting easily. Sadly, the Eggs McNeva do not make an appearance. 

The podcast interview is free-ranging and engrossing. I've only listened to part 1. I need to read some more Vollman, I've only read non-fiction short pieces, but of course he won the National Book Award for fiction (famously, the same night other Sacramentan Joan Didion was honored). But I have to finish fucking Middlemarch first!!!!!!

RIP Phil

RIP to a real one, Phil Isenberg. He died unexpectedly last week after a short illness. He and his wife Marilyn were and are my absolute role models for dynamic aging. In addition to his accomplished political career, he was a strong supporter of the arts, including Midtown Monthly. I met them through MidMo, and through my food writing. He was an early champion of Vampire Penguin and once gave me a gift certificate for it. Looking back through old emails and can see him sending me encouraging notes (like a "Good for you!" when I first wrote something for the Bee).

Until I just saw the  emails I had totally forgotten that I once met them to attend a UCB production of the play The Old Woman starring Baryshnikov and Willem Defoe. 

We dined out together, shared many amusing emails and would always chat at art openings, etc. We lost touch during the pandemic and never fully reestablished our hangouts, although I last saw him at Verge a few months ago.

 I remember one time, I think at the opening of Terminal B, which has an artwork that depicts cranes (you never see it because it's in international arrivals, which are rare in Sac, right?) and I mentioned I had never seen a sandhill crane. He responded with his typical bemused reaction, eyes sparkling, and recommended I make sure to slate in a viewing. Only later did I discover that the viewing area/reserve in Lodi is called the "Phil and Marilyn Isenberg Sandhill Crane Reserve". D'oh!

I absolutely loved running into them, just a wonderful, wonderful man. My thoughts are with Marilyn in her loss.

Where the chefs eat

The new Sactown mag has a fun cover story on where chefs eat. By the way, did you catch that Sactown bought Sacramento mag and then Sacramento went under? That's insane. I guess in the current publishing climate we can hardly expect to have 2 print publications on our dinky town but it was nice while it lasted. Quibble about quality, but I'm a fan of more writing (except sometimes in the case of fascist rag Inside East Sac, well and even then).

The chefs' top pick is Nixtaco (coincidentally to the last post) and after that Binchoyaki and Kru are neck and neck. Ravin Patel picks OBO lol.

It's interesting that Kelly McCown (who I interviewed in 2010 when he was chef of Ella before I learned the trick of ending pieces with a quote rather than a pat statement) picks Mother and also picks Bangkok Thai on 65th and Stockton saying he's almost reluctant to share it. I haven't really eaten any good Thai food since my Thailand trip; this looks like it might be another Thai/Lao place but hey, I love Lao food so I will try it.

Did you see my silly thing I wrote for Comstock's about all the businesses with "good" in the name? I still need to eat at Good Things To Eat Sacramento. I don't think Good Bottle is open in my hood yet. I think they are having some problems.

Nixtaco and Denios - Roseville blast

I hadn't changed my header image in forever, but that pic is from a recent trip to Seoul, to the top of the Seoul Tower, which unexpectedly had a toilet in the sky.

If you can believe it, I had never been to Nixtaco. I had had Nixtaco's food at events such as Baconfest, but I really make it a life policy to avoid Roseville if at all possible. I just associate it with some bittersweet (mostly bitter) memories of growing up. Such as working at #1 Gelato in Roseville in a rather dreary time of life. The only way to soothe the pain was pumpkin gelato mikshakes (which probably had about 3000 calories) and sweet, sweet whip-its in the walkin.

Anyway, so it finally felt like time and Smiller and I decided to go. We got there about 10 minutes after opening and it was already maybe 1/3 full. Right away you could tell it is an efficient operation which means, sigh, QR code menus. They do offer paper menus and we should have done it because theirs is voluminous.

I saw tacos gobernador, which I had to get. This is a style near and dear to my hears from spending a lot of time in Mazatlan. The origin story from the 80s is that some chefs in Maz invented these shrimp and cheese tacos to impress the Gobernador of Sinoloa, hence the name. These usually have gooey melting cheese, such as Oaxaca or Chihuahua. This version had a kinda grainy, runny white cheese sauce, like you would make for a mac and cheese. And bacon. The menu says Oaxaca cheese, but this is def a sauce. I was not a fan of this taco. Why mess with simple perfection and who needs bacon? But to each his own, I was looking for something traditional and nostalgic here.

Short rib barbacoa. This taco was SALTY. I am a salt lover so a taco has to be really salty for me to remark on it. This is guisado-style, messy and soupy. Good taco but slop-dawg and had to eat some with a fork.

I'm pretty sure the QR menu said smoked chicken (online menu doesn't echo this) and anything smoked and I'm like: Schwing. Chile verde, queso fresco. This was my favorite one.

The tortillas are obviously high-quality masa from look and texture but the corn flavor was not strong. All of these were good, Smiller liked his. I would come back when I am in the area and really want to try the octopus taco but so far this is not a destination taco for me.

Then we were on to Denios. If the below song never gets stuck in your head did you really grow up in Sacramento?

I had not been to Denios in FOREVER. Was it still fun? Does it suck now? 

Answer: Still fun, still has weird stuff. Aliens everywhere.

The farmer's market area was really exciting mostly because of the breadth of Mexican produce, herbs, fruit, etc. that is more than any local market you will find. I love these coconut-stuffed limes, I know I've gotten them in Mexico, maybe in Mexico City. The key is that the lime peel is shaved really thin, no bitter pith, no pulp, and then it seems like it's lightly candied. And the coconut is sweetened. They are 2 bucks a pop I ate 2 so fast and wish I had bought more.

A dude there had a fun trippy booth with lots of alien stuff.

I made this extra large so you can see the ominous slogan. I mean, I feel like MAGAs tell you what they are going to do before they do it so this pretty much says it all. We are in for a shitstorm. On the other hand, I was pleasantly surprised to see that all the crazy Trump crap was concentrated in one insane booth.

Salami burps and other gross-outs

 I'm guessing other people have this challenge of being more grossed out by crowds post-COVID? Before COVID I had no qualms about crowds and in punk spaces I've been in some of the sweatiest, stinkiest, shoutiest rooms known to man. I can still handle crowds but now I think more about people's respiration and clouds of mingled breathing. Smiller would tell you that I'm extremely sensitive to scents, especially artificial scents, not like they give me a headache or anything. I just obsess on lingering scents and get something akin to a panic attack if I can't escape one. A laundering experience in Thailand led to nights of poor sleep. I carry my own Dr. Bronner's because I would rather eat with dirty hands than ruin a restaurant meal with soap smell. I am shocked and appalled by how many upscale, well thought out restaurants have smelly soap.

Which brings us to not exactly an artificial scent but a phenomenon I've suffered through TWICE recently: someone near me having salami burps. The first time was at a show, smiller is going to have to help me out here which show, I know I mentioned it to him later. The second time was at David Cross at the Crest last night (he was pretty good, very anti-Christian and his digs at Sac were the funniest part to me).

More grossouts after the jump and also food stuff

Gadget alert!

 RIP to Bay Area artist David Lance Goines. He did all the Chez Panisse art I'm sure you've seen his stuff. And the Acme Bread logo with the little girl and baguettes. I always have thought that this Harbor Winery print I have was done by him but now I am doubting myself.

"She loved a good pickle plate" could be a contender for my epitaph. Cheese plate? Meh. Pickle plate? Helllloooo! Kodaiko has one that is consistently great. The top are slightly sweet mushrooms, you've got Billy's recipe kim chee which is dynamite and then some cucumber action. I got this on a stupid day when I went to Kodaiko just to get a special Filipino-influenced special ramen, then I didn't see it on the specials chalkboard and instead ordered something I didn't really want and didn't end up being into. Frustrating, but the pickle plate was the high point. Ya know what? I like their new Japanese subway-type signage too. Pozole after the jump

Lodi is for Lovers

 

I've been to Guantonio's in Lodi twice, and I'm a super fan. I'm not alone! Me and smiller went on Saturday to celebrate V-Day. The restaurant opens at 5:00, we arrived at 5:10 and our wait was an hour to be seated (outside, near a heater). I would advise, you either need to get there at 445, or come around 7 and you won't have much of a wait. Definitely 530 or 6 is a bad time to arrive. 

Waiting is not too bad, because you can get an excellent brew or bottle of wine and stand at tables outside (also by heaters). Folks tend to chat amongst the tables. It's very friendly. We heard another table from Sacramento who was really making friends, and we talked to a Lodi couple about restaurants they like in Sac. We got a tip from those locals that the Lodi Airport cafe (only open M-F for lunch and Sunday brunch) has really good food. The motto is "eat. fly. skydive." but I would def subtract "skydive" due to the safety record of that skydiving business.

We were seated slightly after 6, which is not late to eat so it was fine. We got a bottle of an Italian red blend. The owner seems to come out to open every bottle and discuss it, so that's a pro tip if you want to give compliments to the chef.

Guantonio's has a very exciting menu. I will often look at a menu and feel pretty meh about everything, but because of the creativity of the app menu at Guad's, I usually want to get just about everything. This time we chose a deep-fried hardboiled egg. It has a breadcrumb shell and was served with house-made chive mayo and topped with trout roe. That's honey on the plate! Crazy! Nick G. loves honey, if you get his pie "Nick-style" it's a roni pie with ricotta and hot honey.

I love a winter salad! So if I see some pretty-ass chicory on a salad I WILL be ordering it. This one had yuzu AND grapefruit AND crunchies (in the form of peanuts) AND miso AND dukkah and like a true salad master (sadly rare) it all came together to make this salad off the chain. My only note: maybe pistachios instead of peanuts? I should not be giving a genius notes tho.

 On to the pie. It had Olympia Provisions mortadella. It just goes to show how hard charcuterie is that some of the best can't be found any closer that Portland (there's Molinari for closer), but anyway I really should be eating more mortadella (doctor's orders) so this was a natural to choose. Also, hot peppers. The pizza is quite good, it lacked a crunch or crisp or chewy factor, not talking middle sog, but edge crust, which was a little more crust than I need. It's so hard to write about pizza, as I found when I briefly worked for Slice (RIP to that website). There are many pizza styles in the world, but  my partiality to Masullo's pizzas colors my perception of this type, which I won't really call Neopolitan but I guess wood-fired.

We even got dessert, which we never do, but eff it, it's Valentine's Day. Buffalo milk vanilla and salted caramel soft serve.  We saw a lot of takeout orders leaving with "Noni's canoli" so those are probably good. I think his dad and mom were working the kitchen, so perhaps Noni was there. 

Later that night we went to Dancing Fox Winery, which has a very interesting beer list, and then in the morning we went to Charro's Birriera, which I had clocked the day prior.

You know I'm gonna get stoked when I order birria and they ask me if I want goat or beef. The answer will always be G.O.A.T.

OMG so good.

Here's a taco made from my soup.

Smiller got a birria taco and a quesabirria taco, so his breakfast was ridiculously cheap, got a little bowl of consomme too.

My check was expensive because I got the full soup and a Michelada too! Hair of the dog for the wine and beer at Guad's the night before

Conclusion: Lodi is rad (in some ways!)

Still craving Taiwanese food and tried Betty

After that pork belly bao I was still thinking about Taiwan best mart, so I went back on Saturday lunch with Smiller to try dining in. It only has two tables and both were full but within a few minutes of ordering both opened up. While I was waiting for a table I poked my head in Osaka Ya. There was a line of people for the mochi, but I noted that Osaka Ya is looking careworn. Using this word made me look it up and it means "tired and unhappy because of prolonged worry" so I am somewhat using it incorrectly. I guess I mean "worse for wear". They have that broken window that's been boarded up for a long time. Anyway, wondering what is going on and hoping Osaka Ya is thriving.

At TBM I ordered an oyster omelet. It had 5 or 6 big oysters in there, strong-tasting ones. I would describe the texture with the gravy, and rice flour out-muscling the eggs as "gloppy". It's my first oyster omelet and I ordered it due to being bummed to not have the opportunity to order an oyster omelet in Thailand, so for me it was swing and a miss but interesting! I'm sure it is quite different from a Thai oyster omelet so I think my ordering motives were not pure. 

One of the main dishes commonly associated with Taiwanese food is beef noodle soup. I have had tastier versions, including at Yang's (RIP) but this was good. The seemingly house made noodles were the best part. The bok choy was too chunky to be able to get good bites of it.

Smiller got sesame noodles with the same noodles above and he purported to like it, that dish is a bit plain if you don't add anything to it.

It was fun to eat there, and I am very stoked on Taiwan Best Mart and trying more of the dishes. 

I know you are marveling that I posted this here rather than saving for the Gram. This is like Instagram gold right here so feel privileged. This is the back patio at new Southside wine bar Betty. I hesitated to go in because I am ride-or-die on Good News and I always feel like I should spend my wine money there. A friend said Betty was really cute so I had to go. It is indeed, cute as hell. Smiller was wondering aloud who created the wine bar/store as pantry/larder concept? Who was the first to decide that a wine bar should sell foodstuffs such as drum roll please....tinned fish! I know Ordinaire has been hugely influential on natty wine stuff but they pretty much focus on wine, so it's not them.

I respect the vibe of the Betty selection, particularly in the store part. It's tough to order a glass when a place picks one wine for each category (like one white, one rose, etc.) because if I want a white wine but not the one they have on offer then what the heck do I order? But I loved the classic Euro feel of some of the picks on the shelves. I feel like it is respecting the greats and has lots of natural wine but is not trend chasing. It has such a female feel to it, due to the name, the owner being female, and the crowd when we were there being 80% female, so it's like the antithesis of natty wine bro. 

Due to the limited selection, I had to order an Italian orange wine (shudder), this is an orange version of a pinot grigio and it tasted mostly just like a glass of white PG. I am kinda kidding when I say shudder but I find orange wine to often have off flavors and mouth textures (didn't say mouthfeel) that I don't enjoy. For my first glass I got an Italian white,

Betty is a cute (did I say mention it's cute?) new addition to the "scene" and hopefully Sac is big enough for all these places to find their niche.

Happy Lunar New Year I ate some dumplings

 I still want to post more about the food in Thailand, but I wanted to do a quick post on recent food "adventures". I have a new year's resolution to lose weight (I know) but also to eat more Asian food (in general and specifically in Davis when I am at the office) and to do more fine dining this year (trying out some fancy places is actually smiller's resolution but I am in favor) so those resolutions are really at odds!

Dating back as my time to SNR as food critic, I get news releases from people. A lady who flacks for Black Angus sends me stuff (I don't have the heart to unsubscribe, I guess I'm like what if I'm the last person left on her list who has not opted out of news releases with the subject line BLACK ANGUS STEAKHOUSE LAUNCHES NEW MOBILE APP), and also Paragary's related places. So I got an announcement that Centro is having crab month. That has set me on a seafood craving path. I def do not eat enough seafood (I mean if I see food....right?) Centro is really close to our house yet I never eat there. I was determined to go there for CRAB MONTH. I made this happen and these are Dungeness crab tacos. We discovered that they now have a tomatillo salsa with the free chips and not the pico de gallo we all remember. I got an excellent Oaxaca margarita with mescal. This food was very bland (I mean duh it's Centro). This made me realize that it may have been these specific black beans that made me think back in the day that I did not like black beans. They just tasted like salt. Now I know that black beans can be very rich and delicious and are the backbone of some regional Mexican food, like in Oaxaca. But when I was  young (days of yore) this was my intro. Also this rice is just...white rice, with maybe a little oil. No seasoning! We had a great time and don't worry Centro is exactly the same and was crowded on a Tuesday.

A friend (CH) recommended I try these juicy pork buns from Tasty Dumpling (Crocker Village). I was skeptical because some of these dumping chains seem really meh. She said it was not a chain, which seems to hold up upon Google research. Their specialty seems to be XLB soup dumpling; their menu is very interesting. She warned me that these juicy guys are squirters, and indeed they are! Make sure you let them cool before you get your juice bath. I put on an apron, but some juice squirted on my phone. They are a two-bite dumpling. They come with chili oil and vinegar. I will be back to this place! I got takeout but would like to eat there because the bready wrapper was steaming in the container and had collapsed

As part of the aforementioned resolution to eat at a fancy-ish place once a month, we ate at Mulvaney's. I def have affection for and support these people behind this restaurant but boy was this a disappointing meal. The entire cute main restaurant was reserved for a private event (I had made reservations for "dining room", which I assumed was the restaurant), so we were in the other area, which has kind of a warehouse feel. Not bad, but not cozy. I won't belabor all of it but it was an off night. We ordered this app, smoked salmon and brown bread, which is a Mulvaney's classic. It was good, although the onions were a bit strong and plentiful. But it's not like they can control the onion strength, I just avoided them. Although on second thought I do control the strength of red onions by lightly pickling them :) Our food all tasted good, but the beverage choices were not exciting.

DUDE LOOK AT THIS BAD BOY. I already knew Taiwan Best Mart was the bomb from semi-regularly getting their rice bowl with stewed pork, pickle and stewed egg. But today I thought: I should try something new. I saw this gua bao for only five bucks (it's about the size of a fist): pork belly, pickled mustard greens, cilantro peanut powder on steamed white bun. DAMN SON this is just as good as the one I got at cool guy LA spot Pine and Crane. I'm excited as you can tell. Fine dining is hard to deal with price-wise, because it's rare that anything you get for say, $38 is as delicious as this was, IMO. Here's an article on why fine dining is unsustainable in its current form. Many think pieces of this kind are coming out now due to Noma's announcement of their eventual closing.

I also got Zha Jiang Mian which they describe as zha-jiang (ground pork, beacurd, edamame, sweet flour sauce and bean paste) on noodles with cucumber and scallion. The noodles stuck together (this would be a better dine-in dish) but the zha-jiang was nicely salty/savory.