Thursday, December 19, 2019

Guadalajara: we continue to pay respect to maiz

 There are so many rad looking houses in Mexico, of course. This one had this really pale yellow, like lemon meringue accent paint everywhere. More cool houses and sandwiches after the jump

People overuse the term "obsessed" but I was pretty obsessed with this house. The contrast with the bunker-like Spartan nature of the outside (see those unfriendly spikes) and this color, which extends to the trim under the eave led me to surmise that the decor in that house would probably blow my mind even more.
Great patio
I was seeking out breakfast and was trying to tick down the list of the Guadalajara specialties I mentioned (lonches, carne in su jugo, tortas ahogadas, etc.) and I was going to tick off pozole. So I went to La Gorda, the chain I mentioned in an earlier post, because I had seen lots of people chowing down on pozole. Turns out it's not so much considered a breakfast food, or at least not at La Gorda. So instead I went to a tortas ahogadas truck I had spotted on our first day. This one was even better than the La Gorda one. They gave me a plastic spoon to eat it, and I broke two, which was embarrassing. I guess maybe you eat them with your hands? I seemed to be the first customer (I guess this is not a breakfast food either, but it was about 10 am and people were chowing down at nearby taco carts), so I didn't have anyone to watch to see what to do.
We headed to one of the older neighborhoods, called Mexicaltzingo.It was a nice walk, and it has a mercado that takes up one block. It's mostly small fondas, with some retail sellers. Guad. has (I think) one of the biggest markets in Latin America but we didn't go. Those kind of markets can be so hectic and we didn't have a very long trip. Anyway, one that takes up a block seemed to be more manageable. We cruised up and down a couple of times looking at all the food booths and trying to decide where to eat. Trying to suss out which places were popular and what they served. I was still hoping to get pozole. Each place had it's own specialty, from big meat plates like arrachera to ceviche and even a fried chicken place with like, chicken tenders. We finally settled on this one, I cannot remember what it was called.

We sit down and see everyone seems to be getting the special of the day, which is ceviche. I'm bummed because I don't want ceviche and I'm convinced I have picked the wrong place. I order a lonche.

I'm sitting there fretting, and then of course the lonche is bomb and is even better than the one I waited an hour for. This may be sacrilege to someone from Guad. to hear that, but waiting in line usually makes me like the actual food less, not more.

I had read to try the ice cream shop outside of the market, on the plaza, so I did. It's a chain, but whatever. I had learned about the fermented corn beverage tejuino when I reviewed Cuco's on Mack Rd. for the publication that shall not be  named. Augh, why do I have to be in Davis right now and I can't just go to Cuco's for lunch????
Anyway, Nieve de Gerrafa had tejuino, so I got it, and to my surprise it came with a chunk of lime sorbet. This drink was lime-y AF and really puckered the old tastebuds. It was a surprising and delicious beverage.
Random snap of typical Mexican coolness

For dinner on our last night, I had a choice: finally get to try carne in su jugo, or eat at another "corn museum"-type restaurant. Spoiler alert: I have still not ever tried carne in su jugo but luckily Hecho in Mexico on Stockton Blvd. serves it so it is just a matter of time. I am SO GLAD we ate at Xokol!!! (still glad despite the fact they don't serve alcohol). This menu had the least words I was familiar with with any Spanish-language menu ever. I did a lot of chill googling under the table
It's very small. Pretty much just a bar with a couple seats looking into the kitchen, a big communal table and a small communal table. Off to the right there you can see the bevy of fermented beverages. I got tepache again because I was struggling to follow what the other drinks were (there didn't seem to be a list).
This is a tlayuda with cured nopal
 God, which thing was this, I can't remember but those greens were off the chain good
Pretty sure this one was the pachola with confit rabbit? This restaurant is another must visit
And the check came in a tiny tortilla press. So cute

2 comments:

Scott Miller said...

I'm so glad you are posting regularly - I can remember my life again! Xocol was so good.

jeffrey day said...

I just ate...now I am starving....!